How to Spin Wool and Make Designer Wool Clothing
It’s disappointing. If you go to the typical store, wool has been processed into clothes that look pretty much the same. Different breeds of sheep have different kinds of wool, but that sweater you buy is probably made up of a conglomeration of wool where the distinctiveness of each type of wool has been lost. Wool used in clothing is also often poor quality. You can buy clothes that are made from good quality wool or wool of a single type if you’re willing to spend a lot of money. Or you can spin your own wool, and have access to any kind of wool you want.
Getting started is tricky, though. Spinning depends on drafting wool, or pulling a piece of wool out to make it thinner and thinner while the wool is being twisted. The easiest way to see how this should work is to experiment with a spindle. There’s a delicate balance that needs to be maintained—the wool needs to be drafted just before the twist hits it. The yarn should be at least a little uniform and without too much twist. It takes some experimenting to get the hang of it.
Getting started is tricky, though. Spinning depends on drafting wool, or pulling a piece of wool out to make it thinner and thinner while the wool is being twisted. The easiest way to see how this should work is to experiment with a spindle. There’s a delicate balance that needs to be maintained—the wool needs to be drafted just before the twist hits it. The yarn should be at least a little uniform and without too much twist. It takes some experimenting to get the hang of it.
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Or you can try spinning on a wheel. A wheel moves the yarn along much faster than a spindle does, so it requires more ability to control the drafting process. A week or two of trial and error, though, and most people are well on their way to accomplished spinning.
What kind of wheel? There are many factors to consider if you’re acquiring a wheel. A spinning wheel is a complicated piece of equipment, and it’s definitely a try-before-you-buy purchase, but here are some things to keep in mind.
One of the first things to consider is how portable you need your wheel to be. Are you going to be taking it to spinning classes? Craft fairs? Many wheels fold for easy portability. Other wheels have virtually no portability at all. Avoid getting stuck with a romantic-looking wheel if it isn’t going to suit your lifestyle. Some wheels are designed for specific types of spinning. A charkha, the type of wheel associated with Gandhi, is primarily used for spinning cotton. It’s important to verify a wheel will be suitable for your fiber needs. A popular wheel is always a good idea for a first wheel. It’s easy to get answers to questions, and if lots of people in town have the same wheel, so much the better. A wheel can definitely be confusing to use initially, so knowing where to get answers can make a big difference. |
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Antique wheels, unfortunately, should really be avoided unless you know what you’re doing. They’re often missing critical pieces, and they’re often intended to spin just one type of fiber.
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Then there are the technicalities. Single or double treadle? Scotch tension? Drive ratios? Single or double treadle and scotch tension are really just a matter of taste. Drive ratios are more critical. A drive ratio is the size relationship between the drive wheel and the whorl. The wider the range of drive ratios, the more types of yarn that can be spun. Many wheels will let you move between ratios.
And what can you spin once you have that wheel? Well, of course wool of every imaginable description. Most fiber stores also sell Angora rabbit fleece, and alpaca, and camel fiber. It’s possible to buy silk and cotton to spin. It’s even possible to buy yak fiber. In short, you’ll have access to an incredible range of beautiful and luxurious spinning possibilities, many of which are available online and can be ordered through ebay. Want your clothes to look like something out of a Neiman Marcus catalogue? Buying a spinning wheel and some roving is a good first step. |
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